Thailand is a vigorously Buddhist country. About 94% of the population is Buddhist, and the state is officially a Buddhist Kingdom. There are over 30,000 wats (temples) in Thailand, serving the religious needs of every community. Therevada Buddhism is about as mainstream as can be here.

Nevertheless, a rich tradition of pre-Buddhist animism thrives in Thailand as well, integrated into almost every aspect of the culture. Most Thais subscribe to distinctly non-Buddhist beliefs in ghosts, magic charms, omens, astrology, and fortune-telling. One manifestation of this phenomenon is the ubiquity of amulets. Amulets are available for virtually any purpose, and come in many shapes, sizes, and colors.

One popular type of amulet is the palad khik, which literally means "deputy penis". These phallic charms are typically carved out of teak or ebony, and range from 5 to 15 cm in length or even larger. They may be simple anatomical representations or may be embellished with additional figures clinging to the shaft. Some are inscribed with magical symbols. They are typically threaded with a string and worn around the waist or carried in a pocket. Palad khik are thought to provide protection, prosperity, strength, virility, and enhance sexual prowess. Several examples can be seen in the gallery (registered users only).

Larger phallic representations are rare but not unheard-of in Thai religious contexts. Wat Po is probably best known for its massive golden Reclining Buddha statue, but in the gardens outside can be found a distinctly phallic monument known as the "Contorted Hermit". That it holds religious significance today is evidenced by a thin film of gold leaf covering the stone statue. For a small monetary offering, visitors to the wat can obtain small pieces of gold foil with which to decorate the totem, as an act of devotion.

Bangkok’s Phallic Shrine

One of the most dramatic examples of phallic worship in Thailand is located at the Nai Lert Shrine. This shrine is centered around the original sam phra phum or "spirit house" dedicated to a local feminine deity named Tuptim. Spirit houses are very common all over Thailand. It is believed that every property is inhabited by a local spirit of distinct character. A sam phra phum, looking like a miniature temple on a pedestal, is constructed to house the spirit and prevent it from wandering around the property wreaking havoc. Offerings of incense, flowers, food and water are regularly brought by visitors to appease the spirit and obtain its blessings.

At some point in its history, the Nai Lert shrine somehow became associated with fertility, and visitors began leaving offerings in the form of carved phalluses. Over the years, thousands of phallic statues of every size (up to 3 meters tall) and construction have been deposited here. Many are festooned with colorful scarves, also brought as offerings by the faithful. Most are of conventional design, anatomically correct and planted upward. An intriguing variation comes in the form of phallus-headed pigs, standing on their two hind legs, with tails and testicles clearly visible from behind. More images of the Nai Lert shrine are available in the gallery (registered users only).

Getting There

The Nai Lert Shrine was almost completely unknown to non-locals until an American expat author named William Warren moved into a house nearby and restored it in 1963. Even now, it is not listed in most guidebooks. The shrine is located in the northwest corner of the grounds of the Nai Lert Park Hotel (formerly the Hilton International) on Thanon Witthayu (Wireless Road) in Bangkok. Probably the easiest way to find it is to ask the concierge in the lobby of the hotel to direct you. Another more scenic approach is to walk up tree-lined Soi Somkhit from Thanon Phloenchit, behind the hotel. Near the end of the road on your right you will see the rear driveway to the hotel. There is usually a guard here but if you ask for the Nai Lert Shrine he will show you the way. Turn left after entering the driveway and the shrine is directly in front of you, alongside the Khlong Mahanak canal. It provides a welcome oasis of shady tranquility amidst the bustle of the city.